Saturday, August 12 Bus and Train from Khajuraho to Varanasi

I had to wake up at 4 am (I more frequently go to bed at that time than wake up) to catch the bus in time for my 11:30 train ride to Varanasi. I walked in the pitch black night to the bus station (I was petrified, I don’t know of which more; creatures or people). I ended up waiting for 30 minutes at a tiny town Bamitha. Mosquitoes were so annoying that I couldn’t even sit still without attracting them. The bus to Satna was nice because the morning sun was rising against the yellow-green of rice fields and cow pastures. Except that I had to vacate my window seat for a lady who was vomiting out the window. I got to Satna, a dull transit town, at 9, so I bought my meal for the day (two bananas) and went to a nearby temple before dying of heat sitting in the room for AC passengers (called the "Upper Class" Waiting Room). I was in the middle of rural India; women carried firewood on their heads into the train, signs were exclusively in Hindi, saris only (no salwar kameez or pants). Remember how I woke up at 4? Turns out my train was two hours late (I had a fun-filled day spent sitting in the Satna Railway Station). I finished the book Siddhartha (in preparation for Bodhgaya), but the whole time I thought the character Siddhartha was going to become the Buddha, but really he’s just a random Indian guy! The whole day I had two bananas for food. I slept on the train to Varanasi, which passed through the busy holy city of Allahabad (sounds pretty holy to me, as “Allahabad” in Urdu means "God City”). From what I saw, it was all a bad city (pun intended…sorry). Kids were flying Independence Day kites on rooftops. The tracks lay on litter-covered dirt with holes, from which hundreds of rats scurried to and fro. It was one of the scariest and most hideous things I have ever seen. But I couldn’t stop watching from the safe haven of the train. I got into Varanasi, the holiest city in Hinduism (kind of like the Hindu version of Jerusalem to Christians…and Jews…and Muslims) and one of the oldest living cities on earth (2000+ years). Its name derives from its location; at the confluence of Varuna, Ganga, and Assi Rivers. Hundreds of people were sleeping on the floor everywhere, and my cheap ass was tempted to, but I decided that I could afford the $3 to not sleep on the dirty floor among flea-ridden dogs, rats, mosquitoes, lepers, and thieves. I was instantly bombarded with touts, trying to take me to a hotel which would pay them commission. I told him I wanted a cheap hotel, and he proceeded to take me to the YMCA ($15 a night for non-AC). Instead, I ended up a block away from the Ganges in Safari Lodge. My room was not luxurious, but had a good shower and bathroom, and fan. I slept dressed in all my clothes because there was no bedding.